Calcutta Cravings (Part 1)
It all started with my yearly visits to Calcutta as a school boy. These visits would largely be restricted to spending time at my grandparent’s home, meeting relatives, completing my holiday homework and hogging at the local food vendors — shouldn’t be hard guessing which one of those was my favourite. As my school years drew to a close there was a sharp decline in my trips to the city (by then renamed to Kolkata), but now I was allowed to explore the place on my own. It was during these expeditions that I chanced upon some of the better known food outlets of the city. To me Kolkata soon turned into a food hotspot, one that is best visited during winters.
The fact that Kolkata is a low-cost city made it even more attractive. If you hail from one of the other metropolitans and are unaware of the economics of Kolkata, it will most certainly surprise you. Simple things like gol gappe cost a minimum of Rs 15 for 5 in Delhi, while in Kolkata you can get 4 good phuchkas for just Rs 5 — in spite of the fact that phuchkas make use of many more ingredients. This disparity, when compared to other major cities of India, is noticeable in every aspect of life in Kolkata — be it food, transport or even movies.
Kolkata today offers a wide variety of cuisines — many of them time-honoured. The history of this city has significantly influenced its culinary scene and helped in the creation of this diversity — the East India Company brought in the English and the Continental food, the Chinese settlers (who earlier ran their tanneries) introduced their cuisine and Mughlai cuisine was brought in from Awadh by Wajid Ali Shah — to name a few. And of course, the food of the natives — the Indian yet very unique Bengali cuisine. Being associated to a city such as this has great influences on one’s gastronomic habits, preferences and cravings. So next time you see a Bengali yearning for some Biryani and Kababs instead of fish, don’t be surprised.
About a month back I spent a couple of weeks in Kolkata. As I got down to make a note of all the awesome food I had there, I realised that the list was too long for a single post. So here I kick-off with Mughlai cuisine. Here are two restaurants that I have to visit every time I am in Kolkata:
Sabir’s Hotel
Sabir’s Hotel is located at a corner on Chandni Chowk Street, very close to the Chandni Chowk Metro exit on Ganesh Chandra Avenue. This place maintains an ambience very similar to that of Indian Coffee House — a no-frills restaurant and with a not particularly strong focus on hygiene. However it serves some of the best Mughlai food in town. Sabir’s Hotel is known for its Rezela — a white gravy (high fat content) that tastes slightly savoury and is extremely flavourful. Every time I visit Kolkata I make sure I pay them a quick visit just to have their Mutton Rezela with Tandoori Roti (Khamiri Roti). I have also heard that they serve some excellent early morning breakfast (primarily non-vegetarian) but haven’t managed to taste that yet.
Mutton Rezela
Damages: Mutton Rezela for Rs 80, Roti for Rs 6
Closest Metro Station: Chandni Chowk
Arsalan
Arsalan has recently grown a reputation to serve some of the best Biryani in town. Kolkata-styled biryani is quite different from the other variants available around India, and is especially popular among Bengalis. The biryani releases a gorgeous aroma while being light on oil and spices. One of the typical features of Kolkata Biryani is the presence of big pieces of potatoes in the rice. While Bengalis consider the potatoes to be an essential (and tasty) component of their biryani, I have found most others to dislike it. A serving of biryani at Arsalan typically contains one large chunk of both meat and potato.
Mutton Biryani
Other than the biryani, they also serve some good Mutton Chaap (another popular Mughlai dish among Bengalis) — a semi-gravy preparation. The gravy is essentially a pungent flavoured oil and some finely ground spices settled at the base. The dish makes liberal use of Meetha Attar, an edible perfuming agent and its scent is retained in your fingers for a long time even after the meal.
Mutton Chaap
Damages: Mutton Biryani for Rs 110, Special Biryani (extra rice + 2pcs mutton + boiled egg) for Rs 160. Mutton Chaap for Rs 100 (approx.)
Two of Arsalan’s branches are located quite close to each other. The one at Park Circus, a major road intersection, is more visible, thus usually crowded. The other one is located at AJC Bose Road, about 5 mins walk from Park Circus. This one is less crowded, better suited for families and perhaps priced marginally higher. There are more outlets around the city.
Next in the series: Heritage restaurants at Park Street.
